Day Nine - On to Arco de Pino

We left early today after taking a ride to the start of the camino trail from our casa owner. It felt a little like cheating to be getting out of a car but we did not cut off any kilometres! It was cool and misty and the numbers of pilgrims on the trail has increased. Today we met a family of four- 2 parents and two children of about 8 and 10. They are walking into Santiago and are just a little behind us. We need to walk about 24 km today in order to be close enough to make Santiago for the noon pilgrim's mass. There are three traditions: come to the cathedral in your walking clothes with packsack etc for mass, pass behind the altar to give St.James a hug, then go down into the crypt to pray before his remains found in a silver box. Finally, make sure you place your hand on the staff at the the Porta Sanctuary as you enter the church. Unfortunately, this area is under restoration and it is under wraps with scaffolding at this time.

We began our day early and the walk was beautiful. It was cool and fresh and since we were high,up on plain, the view of the sun rising was glorious. We walked our way to Melide by soon after noon. It was an interesting day as we forgot poles at one stop and a camera at another! All were found and recovered, thank goodness. Melide is famous for its octopus and there are many restaurants serving this delicacy. Vicki was the only one really interested in trying the speciality of the area so she got a very large container of lightly sautéed octopus. She enjoyed it so much she had it for lunch, the following day's breakfast, and again at lunch. Whew! Melide really looked like an interesting place to stop but we are trying to make it to Santiago by Oct. 12th so it's moving on time. We did a long stop in the city, getting cash from a local ATM and enjoying the shade outside a local church. There we met some of Vicki's walking friends from earlier stages of the Camino. It was pleasant to catch up with them and get all the news about their walk.

Day Thirteen- to the End of the Earth

After much discussion and mind changing, we are taking the bus part of the way to Finisterre. Because it is three day walk, and the second is 33 km on pavement, we have decided to bus to Cee, overnight there and the walk into Finisterre. See is rather a palindrome spot as it is between Santiago and FInisterre. We stay at simple place but the family is very friendly and their daughter just the week before had married an Englishman. The day was cool to start but warmed over the noon hour. The walk was quite pretty especially when we finally reached the ocean and stopped for a walk in the sea and lunch on the beach. It was gorgeous, sun overhead and a light sea breeze. We picked shells and played around for an hour, then moved on to the town of Finisterre about 4 km away. After stopping for a cold drink at a seaside bar, we headed into town and booked a couple of nights at the Anchor pension. Again simple rooms, no extras, 35 E per night. We walked out to the lighthouse, or faro in Portuguese, and enjoyed views of the Atlantic at he farther point of land on the Spanish coast. There was peace memorial and other markers, especially important was kilometer zero of the Camino. Back to our place for a quick shower an then just enough time for a walk to see the sunset over the beach west of the town. It was a huge red sunset that dropped very quickly. In the early days, sailors who arrived to explore were very afraid of the "death of the sun". On to supper which was a little delayed while some shopping happened. Once we did get to eat, the meal was very good. Tomorrow may be a day off or we may travel on to Muxia and the walk back to Finisterre. Discussions over breakfast will seal the deal. Buen Camino!

Day Fourteen- Muxia and back

Breakfast at a lovely little terrace cafe on the waterfront was delightful. Coffee, toast and jam tastes delicious in the fresh air. After some discussion, we decided to bus to Muxia and the walk b ack some or al of the way. The bus left at 11 and was full of pilgrims returning to Santiago. We got off in Cee only to find out there was no bus to Muzia on Saturdays! No problem! The bus manager. Called us a cab and for 20 E we were off again. We arrived in Muzia and walked the waterfront. Nothing much to see. We then walked on through the town and towards the coast. This was the site of the single- hulled oil tanker crash in 2004, the worst in the history of Spain. There is a beautiful old church and a many signs of ancient civilizations- huge rock formstions, stone fences, crosses. There was 3.5 billion spent on the clean-up and there is little or no evidence of a massive oil spill. However, the fishing industry has yet to recover. It an incredible place of beauty and significance and well with the trip. We met our cabbie at 2 pm who the drove us half way back, with about 20 km to go to Finisterre. It sounded easy at the time but it was very hot and a lot of pavement walking. We took a " shortcut" off the Camino route and paid dearly for the road walking! By the time we got back it was after 6 pm, a very long day. Supper couln't come soon enough and we found a great pizza joint on the waterfront and had modern day food. This officially marks the end of the Camino and 2 weeks of walking about 300 km. There were some very hard times, due to heat and wear and tear, as well as some joyous times with friends, new and old. I miss John and wish he was here to share in this. A month is far too long to be apart, I have learned the hard way. It is also too long to spend with people who are not old friends or family. There are just too many small differences that grow to drive you crazy. All in all it has been a journey.

Day Twelve- Last steps into Santiago

It was an early day as we have still over 20 km to walk to the cathedral before noon today. There is an air of excitement and sadness too as the long journey comes to an end for our friends who have walked for the last 42 days, over 800 km! For me, I am bald and happy to be done with the daily grind. It has been very hot every day and the afternoons with over 20 km to walk were brutal. There are many people on th path is morning some looking very ragged and worn and others who are fresh form the shower and a night of celebration. we are still traversing small farms and villages even though we are close to the city. Finally the Monte de Josu appears and the cathedral is in the distance. It can no longer be seen from the outskirts as the modern city has grown up around the walls of the old medieval town. It is a slow walk and always farther than it seems when you are trying to arrive. We do very well and get to the cathedral by 11:30. There are pilgrims everywhere hugging and smiling, full of joy to have reached their goal. We enter the cathedral through the side door and walk up to the main altar, resplendent with gold. The church is already quite full but we manage to get seats almost at the back. Sadly, some women in front won't move over so we have to stand and take turns for the first while. Despite our fatigue and sore knees, everyone is happy to be there and you feel a real communion with the people in the cathedral. It is a remarkable structure, apparently the third most holy structure after Rome and Jerusalem. St. James is centered behind the main altar and there is a passage pilgrims may take behind him to touch or hug him for future benefits. Then one goes down to the crypt to see his remains in a silver box and on to the Port Sancto to place your hand on the entrance way. We spend a couple of hours wandering around this incredible building from the 12th century before we make our way to Hostal suso, a small clean place on Rua de Vilar. The city behind the walls is build all around the cathedral in concentric circles with winding medieval paths of cobble stones and numerous stairs. After a shower and some lunch we head out to retrieve our left luggage at hotel Husa. They are very kind and hand it over with no charge after ten days of storage! Then it's off to the office of the Pelegrino to get our certificate of completion. You must show your pilgrim's passport to an official who then decides if you have done the deed. You also must give your name, age, and purpose for doing the camino. To get certified, you must have walked at least 100 km into Santiago, usually starting in Sarria, many people do this and say they have done the Camino. The rest axially do the very long walk, 800+ km, and repea as necessary. There are many caminos in Europe and we met people who had doe them all. Some walk up to 40 km a day, and seem no worse for wear. Others really suffer and often go home in the middle, to return again and try and finish. We were very lucky that there were no reall injuries, even blisters.

Later we enjoy dinner not far from the cathedral and many other pilgrims join us for vino tinto, bread, mussels, and pimiento frites. The day cools quickly once the sun goes down and I am grateful. I am so tired of hot days, I'm ready to fly home to cool Edmonton weather. Over supper we talk about our next plans which are to walk to Finisterra, the end of the earth! Apparently a beautiful place and reputed to have religious significance as Mary appeared to St. James on the boat by the sea. Who really knows anymore? More news when we have decided what our next plan is. Buen Camino!

Day Ten- Palais de Rey to Melide

We began our day early and the walk was beautiful. It was cool and fresh and since we were high,up on plain, the view of the sun rising was glorious. We walked our way to Melide by soon after noon. It was an interesting day as we forgot poles at one stop and a camera at another! All were found and recovered, thank goodness. Melide is famous for its octopus and there are many restaurants serving this delicacy. Vicki was the only one really interested in trying the speciality of the area so she got a very large container of lightly sautéed octopus. She enjoyed it so much she had it for lunch, the following day's breakfast, and again at lunch. Whew! Melide really looked like an interesting place to stop but we are trying to make it to Santiago by Oct. 12th so it's moving on time. We did a long stop in the city, getting cash from a local ATM and enjoying the shade outside a local church. There we met some of Vicki's walking friends from earlier stages of the Camino. It was pleasant to catch up with them and get all the news about their walk.

Day Eight- Portas to Rabadeos

Last evening was an interesting stay in a rural casa. The family literally moved out of their rooms to accommodate us. They run a small ecological (organic) farm and raise all sorts of  fruit and some animals. The daughter was about 11 years old and studies English in school. She was quite willing to try and help translate the menu and our other needs to her mother and abuela. The mother kindly took us to see an 11th century church 2 km. up their road where the Irish had come to Spain to do the masonry. There were clover leafs embedded in the doors and lintel posts of the church. This stop was culturally rich and while a little on the poor side, a memorable experience.

After a breakfast of toast, fried on both sides, plus coffee, we were off early. Today the way is quite close to a highway as we are rapidly approaching Santiago. It is very hot here again, almost 30 degrees, and apparently unseasonable. I am finding it very hard by the afternoon as we are usually into the last 10-15 km and it is so hot. Today has been quite pretty and we are seeing far more wealth in this area. Instead of tramping through cow sh**, we have been traversing streams and wooded paths. Gone are the farms, the roosters, chickens and literally cows being herded on the path! Now we are seeing houses with real rather than thatched roofs, what might have been a mall, and many more cars. People continue to be very friendly and don´t mind if you try your limited Spanish. When we finally reached our destination, the little village of Boente, there was only one room with 4 beds, bunk bed style. Yecchh! The cafe owner kindly called a local casa touristica for us. The casa owner came and picked us up as their home was off the camino by 6 km. Driving in a car was positively delightful! It was lovely- clean, organized, with very friendly people who spoke both French and Spanish. We were able to make our dietary needs known in a kindly way and we had the most delicious supper! Nothing fried for a change! Tomorrow is our last long day before we reach Santiago. Wish me luck as so far no foot, knee or other problems. Buen camino!

Day Seven- On to Hererrias

The days are beginning to blur as we walk for 7-8 hours daily and by the end of the day you are too tired to recall what you did! Another early day and a cool breeze around us. The path was beautiful, tree-lined and strewn with small rocks and pebbles. This area is rich in Moorish and Spanish history and the little churches, peublos, cafes, farms, and orchards are very interesting. When we begin our day we more or less know where we are going but  one cannot always make the difference. Today is along day-26 km- as we are trying to get to Santiago for the noon pilgrim´s mass on Wednesday, October 12th, their Galiciaen national holiday. Depending where we stop, we find a different hostal or casa and there is a pelegrino menu. Delicious food, simply made with vino tinto. After walking so far,  you can eat almost anything! This area of Spain is quite poor so we have had very simple food such as patates frites with a fried egg on top. I think they think we are English! Thank goodness for fresh lettuce and lots of tomatoes. Daily we must wash everything we are wearing as it is put on again the next day. Our packs have only the necessities, the clothes we are wearing and a change of clothes for dinner. I have one sweater which I have needed in the early morning when it is quite cool. After only one week, you truly begin to really appreciate a bar of soap, a drink of water, and clean clothes.
We have been visiting many churches as we walk and getting our pelegrino passports stamped. This is an international practice and each country has its own passport which indicates how far you have come. The little towns, churches and cafes all have their own distinctive stamp or sello. We have not met too many pilgrims onthe path apart from a group of 16 Peruvian cyclists. Most interesting! We have two more hard days of walking and then we will have reached the Cathedral of Santiago. Buen camino!

Day Six- From Serria to Mercadoiro

Up early today before the sun was up and walking in the dark! What an experience to walk by the last light of the moon through a narrow rock-strewn path between stone walls, reminiscent of Ireland. This area of  Spain, the province of Galicia, is very celtic and has a marine climate. There is moss on all the stones and the fields are green and fresh and surrounded by trees with fall colors. We are walking through cattle farms where the odours are strong!and we are constantly avoiding cow pies on the path. There is a lot of farming and we have been picking apples, figs, grapes, chestnuts, and almonds. There are few pilgrims on the road as it is the very end of the season. Still, cafe owners are friendly and local people wave and say hello everywhere you go. There are small churches from the 11C as well as remnants of Roman castles and roads. Limestone is quarried in the area and the paths are limestone so they are almost lit up as the day gets darker. There was evidence of the Moorish influence in the town of Serria- many windows have wooden grates from which women can look out but not be seen. Very interesting. We reached the 100 km marker this afternoon- this indicates how far we must go to Santiago. This stretch is very popular because if one completes it, you are given your certificate of completion for the camino when you reach Santiago. Many people fly in and do this part only. Because of this, the paths are well-marked, very pretty, and there are many interesting cafes along the route. Here you meet people from all over the world- English, German, Dutch, Japanese, Portuguese, today alone. Menu de noche is being readied for service so I´m off to eat. Buen camino!

Day Five- Herrerias and On

We woke to a beautiful cool morning, dark until 8 AM. One needs a warm jacket or scarf in the ealy morning as it is cool in the mountaisn. Today we begin the descent down the mountainpasses and it should be quicker! It was an early start as pilgrims are on the road often by seven o´clock.We had several girls next door and sleeping in was out of the question. There was no breakfast available so we had leftover bread, cheese a hard-boiled egg and water. The 8 km walk was lovely-cool, downhill and picturesque. We stopped around 10:30 in O Cebreiro, a beautiful stonewalled village with cafes and the oldest church on the camino. It had a very holy feeling inside the stone walls. We waited here for about 3 hours trying to re-locate the packsack. Finally with much translation and hand movements, we arranged to have it sent to today´s destination-Triacastlla. Once that was decided and completed, we moved on to walk about 12 km further down the road. Again, huge views and grand valleys all around us, we walked into to Alto de Poio, the highest point in the area.You would think from the map there is actually a pueblo here but no, only 2 bars, a albergue and a casa tourista. For 20€ we had a room with 2 beds, a private toilet, no towels and paper sheets. Oh well. Apart from the roosters crowing below the windows and dogs barking all night, it was fine. We had dinner across the highway at the second bar, san roosters,but a very surly barkeep. Apparently tired of pelegrinos. Dinner was very odd. No choice but for 11€ we got ¨caldo gallego¨, a heavy vegetable broth-delicious, followed by french fries, with slices of beef on top covered by fried eggs. Very strange but when one is hungry, one eats. Everyone is a little disappointed but too tired to really care. We met  Christine who is on a deferred year from her teaching job and walking alone. She was a great addition to dinner tonight. Tomorrow promises to be a good day and hopefully we will get our bag back and change our clothes. I was lucky to find on the cobbled streets of O Cebriero, a fleece that had fallen off another pilgrim´s bag. I kept and have put it to good use! Today is also the day I had Matthieu in my mind as we had planned to do the camino together in 2006. I felt all the emotions he must have felt that year and had a little cry for him. Buen camino!

Day Four- Ruta Dragonte

Leaving Villafranca early as today is a long day. Very beautiful and cool, with three routes to choose from, and we are doing the hardest, only mentioned in one or two guide books.The morning was good but hot and steep. The views were spectacular as we climbed 2000 m to view the Valle de Valcarce. The afternoon became very hot and very difficult and I had a minor meltdown. After a coca cola and some time in the shade we finished the day by 7 pm after about 11 hours of walking. A bit too much for Day 3! There are many pilgrims but nothing like the other months of the spring and sunmmer. Most are German or French, any Canadians are usually Quebecois or New Brunswickers.You continually meet the same folks as your pace creates a cohort of sorts. Everyone is very generous as we have had no sunscreen or shampoo for several days. We arrived in a beautiful town at the end of today called Bacebelos and the older Spanish folk were all sitting in the cool evening air enjoying the sights of filthy pilgrims arriving in disrepair. We had to scramble through brambles and dusty trails and it was rough going some of the time. However all is well and we are safe and have finished the hardest stage of the whole camino! Buen camino!

Day Three- On from Ponferrada

We slept in today and I made it through the night without waking up. After a pleasant desayuno of toast, coffee and fruit we left for a short leg of about 8 km. We are doing easy days and hard days to break ourselves in. Vicki and Sheila have been walking for over a month and are well-conditioned. No so Joe and I. It was a beautiful walk through several small villages and vineyards. We can see the hills in the distance that we must cross tomorrow and I am a little afraid. However, when we reached Villafranca today we arranged to send on my bag for 5E and that will make walking 26 km. a lot easier. It is going to be the hardest day so far as well as the most picturesque, according to the guidebooks. There are 3 routes through the mountains and of course we are taking the steepest and hardest. Oh well. We have also booked a place for tomorrow night so we know we have somewhere to sleep in advance. At the end of the day when you are tired, hot and dusty, finding a hostal can be trying, especially when trying to stay on a budget of  35E. As of Day 2, I feel much better about this trip. I have not mentioned going home today...Buen Camino!

Day Two of the Camino

We finally arrived in Spain after a very long journey and many late flights. It was a relief to see Vicki and meet Sheila and just relax. I am feeling quite jetlagged but OK. After a little sleep we went our for a pelegrino meal. This is a special dinner for pilgrims costing about 9e and includes salad, main, dessert and ´´una bouteille de vin tinto´´. Excellent price and usually a very good dinner! Our first day of walking included a trip to the Valle de Silencio in the morning to see a special monastery and hermitage. We were on the camino by noon after a roadside lunch of bread, cheese, and fruit. We walked about 16 km in total yesterday and my hips could feel it. My pack is very good- comfortable and only about 6 kg. I am down to the absolute basics- one set of clothes for walking and one set for dining out! Some toiletries, a big hat, some extra socks and another pair of sandals. It is very different but freeing. I am still worried about being able to cope- it is very hot during the day, over 30 degrees. Tomorrow is an easy day so I am relieved and hope to sleep well tonight. Buen Camino!