It was an early day as we have still over 20 km to walk to the cathedral before noon today. There is an air of excitement and sadness too as the long journey comes to an end for our friends who have walked for the last 42 days, over 800 km! For me, I am bald and happy to be done with the daily grind. It has been very hot every day and the afternoons with over 20 km to walk were brutal. There are many people on th path is morning some looking very ragged and worn and others who are fresh form the shower and a night of celebration. we are still traversing small farms and villages even though we are close to the city. Finally the Monte de Josu appears and the cathedral is in the distance. It can no longer be seen from the outskirts as the modern city has grown up around the walls of the old medieval town. It is a slow walk and always farther than it seems when you are trying to arrive. We do very well and get to the cathedral by 11:30. There are pilgrims everywhere hugging and smiling, full of joy to have reached their goal. We enter the cathedral through the side door and walk up to the main altar, resplendent with gold. The church is already quite full but we manage to get seats almost at the back. Sadly, some women in front won't move over so we have to stand and take turns for the first while. Despite our fatigue and sore knees, everyone is happy to be there and you feel a real communion with the people in the cathedral. It is a remarkable structure, apparently the third most holy structure after Rome and Jerusalem. St. James is centered behind the main altar and there is a passage pilgrims may take behind him to touch or hug him for future benefits. Then one goes down to the crypt to see his remains in a silver box and on to the Port Sancto to place your hand on the entrance way. We spend a couple of hours wandering around this incredible building from the 12th century before we make our way to Hostal suso, a small clean place on Rua de Vilar. The city behind the walls is build all around the cathedral in concentric circles with winding medieval paths of cobble stones and numerous stairs. After a shower and some lunch we head out to retrieve our left luggage at hotel Husa. They are very kind and hand it over with no charge after ten days of storage! Then it's off to the office of the Pelegrino to get our certificate of completion. You must show your pilgrim's passport to an official who then decides if you have done the deed. You also must give your name, age, and purpose for doing the camino. To get certified, you must have walked at least 100 km into Santiago, usually starting in Sarria, many people do this and say they have done the Camino. The rest axially do the very long walk, 800+ km, and repea as necessary. There are many caminos in Europe and we met people who had doe them all. Some walk up to 40 km a day, and seem no worse for wear. Others really suffer and often go home in the middle, to return again and try and finish. We were very lucky that there were no reall injuries, even blisters.
Later we enjoy dinner not far from the cathedral and many other pilgrims join us for vino tinto, bread, mussels, and pimiento frites. The day cools quickly once the sun goes down and I am grateful. I am so tired of hot days, I'm ready to fly home to cool Edmonton weather. Over supper we talk about our next plans which are to walk to Finisterra, the end of the earth! Apparently a beautiful place and reputed to have religious significance as Mary appeared to St. James on the boat by the sea. Who really knows anymore? More news when we have decided what our next plan is. Buen Camino!
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